Bike Stunts: Wheelie
The wheelie is the most simplest and the most complex of all street freestyle stunts. The sit-down wheelie is the most easy and the most popular stunt in the wheelie stunt. The more complex and incredible wheelie being the other wheelie variations namely — skyscraping High Chairs, No-Handers — which leave us wondering “How do the Bikers do that Stuff? Its so amazing.”
All the stunts shown below are performed with great care and technical guidance. Dont try them on the roads.
1. Basic Sit-Down Wheelie :
In the section of Wheelie Stunts the “Sit-downs” are the easiest and the most difficult one to be explained. There are many ways of doing the wheelie, it depends on the bike and the rider. One method is explained below but there may be other ways of doing it also.
The “Sit-Down wheelie” can also be divided into two parts namely - “Power Wheelies” and “Clutched wheelies”.
sit down wheelie
The Power Wheelie uses the power of the bikes motor for lifting the front wheels. You get the revs up near the bike’s torque peak and goose the throttle to snap the front end up. On a super bike this is easy — just snap the throttle at around 6000 rpm and it wheelies. A normal Indian Bike such as Pulsar, Karizma it needs a little help from the rider. On these bikes the rpm has to be rolled higher enough, then chop the petrol and snap it on again. Chopping the throttle will cause the front end to dive for an instant, and the rebounding of the fork will help the front end come up when you snap the throttle back on. You almost have to open the throttle all the way to the stop to get the front end up under power. In these type of method sometimes it gets dangerous as it may give you a jerk (as you are dealing with a lot of Power ) to make you loose control over your bike. That’s why the power wheelies is hated mostly by the professionals.
In the “Clutched Wheelies” the front comes up quicker and you’re lower in the rev range when you bring the front end up, so you’re not going as fast and you’ve got more time to find the balance point before you hit the rev limiter. For a clutched wheelie, you have to pull the clutch in, just enough to cause the rpm to rise up to the torque peak, and then let it out quickly. You should pull the clutch in just slightly, just into the friction zone. The revs rise for a split second, and then I drop the clutch–don’t ease it out–and back off the throttle incrementally as the front end comes up. The higher the front wheel goes the less throttle is needed to keep it up. Backing off keeps the bike from going over.
In both the Wheelies keep my arms stiff, squeeze the tank with your legs and always cover the rear brake. If things get ugly, you just tap the rear brake and both wheels are back on the ground. If you’re looking straight ahead, when you can’t see over the bike you know you’re getting close to the balance point.
2. Standup :
Same as a sit-down, you can do this one either on power or on the clutch. You also have to bounce the bike a bit to help it up. Bouncing down on the handlebars preloads the front suspension. The energy of the fork releasing, combined with the throttle input, pops the wheel up. You have to stand up first, then lean forward and bounce it by pushing down on my arms, causing the fork to compress. When the fork comes back up I’m on the gas (not as much as a sit down–standups take less power to lift up!) and pulling on the handlebars to bring the bike up.
As the front wheel is coming up, You have to drop Your butt back a little bit to help it along. Now bend your knees when you are pulling the bike up, and once it gets up to about 10 o’clock straighten your legs and lean back. With a standup you can hold the throttle in one spot and use your body language to control the wheelie.
The body language makes it so easy to balance a standup, it’s easy to ride one through the gears. To shift during a wheelie, you have to blip the throttle just a touch right before the shift. When you fan the clutch to shift, it kills power to the wheelie, and if you don’t blip the throttle a touch this can cause you to drop the front wheel. So blip it, causing the front wheel to float a bit higher for a split second, then shift as quickly as possible. Preloading the shifter and just nudging the clutch lever will help you shift faster. Please shift as early as possible. If you shift when you’re hard on the gas or your revs are up, you’re more likely to miss the shift. The sooner you shift, the less likely you are to miss the gear. But not too soon, so you don’t bog the revs! Incidentally, these shifting rules are the same for a sit-down wheelie.
3. Can Can :
To do a Can Can, start like the one in the standup wheelie and as soon as you get the front wheels up to the position you are comfortable with, take your right leg and place it between the tank and the left leg. Since there is not mush space between the gap of your leg and the tank be careful to know where your right leg is leading without looking and be quick.
Since during this wheelie your whole body’s weight is on the left side of the bike make sure to lean your shoulders on the right side of the bike to counter weight the total balance of the bike. The total balance of the bike has to be centered. move your bike carefully and slowly as if you try to do this very fast then you may get out of control.
If you ever do get out of control, or to where you feel like you are making a mistake, just let off the gas or tap the rear brake and put the front down–it doesn’t really matter where you are standing on the bike, once both wheels are on the ground you are safe.
4. High Chair :
In this type of Wheelie, you sit on the oil tank with both your legs out to the sides. The best way to do this is to kick your legs one at a time which will allow you to keep atleast one hand on the handle bar. using Cruise control you can do with both the legs at once which steals lot of excitements in the competitions.
To start with “High Chair” its often advisable to dig your ankles to grip yhe headlight so that you dont fall off.
high chair stunt
Denting on the tank also helps you by giving you a flat surface to sit on. The High Chairs takes more throttle since more weight is over the front of the bike but as your weight is far forward and you are using much throttle you should watch over the actions and be smooth with the clutch so as to avoid the wheel spin.
5. Frog :
There is a much similiarity betwwn the High Chair and The Frog wheelies. Its just Getting on the tank first like the High Chair and the clutch it up. Here also be careful as like the High Chair here too you have the weight over the front and you have nothing to hold onto and when you drop the clutch your weight may tend to go backwards. For avoiding your weight going backwards you may hold the handle bars more tighterPlus, you don’t really have anything to hold onto, so when you drop the clutch your body weight wants to go backward.
That’s going to make you wanna hold onto the bars even more tightly, which can cause you to twist the throttle more than you should. So to avoid unwanted throttle inputs, you have to grip tighter with your left arm than your right.
The hardest part in the Frog Wheelie is puting the wheels down. When you set the wheel down it throws all your weight forward, and when you’re standing up on the tank/seat and just holding on to the handlebars, there’s not much to keep you from just flipping over the front. Not for amateurs, this trick.